Articles
How to Build a Weightlifting Platform
February 2 2015
February 2 2015
About 100 years ago, I posted an article about how to build a lifting platform on a slope. It was something I had to do at the time, so I figured I’d post some instructions while I was at it. Now years later, I’ve been asked more times than I can calculate how to build a platform—I’ve written out instructions in emails and website comments so many times I could have written this article a thousand times over.
First of all, platforms are and have been available to purchase for years from a number of equipment manufacturers. I have yet to see and use one that I would want in my own gym, especially for the exorbitant prices they go for. Building your own platform(s) is pretty easy and far less expensive, and, at least in my opinion, produces a better platform to lift on anyway.
How you build your platform will depend somewhat on where it’s being placed and what else is going on around it. For example, many CrossFit gyms prefer lifting platforms sunk flush into their rubber flooring to keep that space available for multiple uses. This is a good solution in these cases, but it’s not exactly a platform in the conventional sense of the word. The other option is an actual dedicated, raised platform.
Raised Platform
The raised, dedicated lifting platform is the ideal lifting surface if allowable in your gym. Its advantages are better force absorption for dropped weights, meaning less wear and tear on both the equipment and floor underneath, better noise reduction for your stupid neighbors, and it creates a clearly-defined lifting area for the athlete. The disadvantages are the greater cost of materials, time to build, and the fact that it disrupts floor space for other uses.
The traditional lifting platform is 8x8 feet. This is a convenient size because standard sheets of plywood and the like are 4x8 feet, and this is enough space for anything a weightlifter would need to do in training, even with a squat rack on one end of the platform.
Build the base of the platform with two layers of inexpensive 3/4" or 1/2" plywood—these sheets can be low-grade, as they won’t be seen or lifted on directly; they just need to create a base of support and absorption. Lay two 4x8 sheets side by side along the long edges, with the seam between the two running front to back. Then lay the other two sheets plywood on top perpendicularly (the seam between them running from side to side). Screw these sheets together along all edges and through the middle areas—you can’t use too many screws here. You can glue instead, or glue and screw, but I prefer not to because it prevents disassembly of the platform for moving or repair later. Lots of screws may be a pain to remove later, but you can remove them, and they’ll keep the sheets lying flat against each other.
Next, you need to place your top sheet to create the lifting surface. Many people use an unmodified 4x8 sheet of plywood or MDF here, which will work, but the plates on the bar will be just barely outside the edges. I prefer to trim this top sheet down to 3’6” to add a little more space for the bumpers to land on rubber. Cut if you’re going to, and lay this sheet in the middle of the platform—don’t attach it yet.
I like using ¾” MDF on the top—it’s far less expensive than plywood of the quality you need for this application, and it’s heavy and naturally flat, so there’s less of an issue of it bowing up in the middle. If you use plywood, you need a quality sheet with a perfectly flat, smooth surface on at least one side.
Now we need to add the rubber landing surfaces along each side of the lifting surface. You can buy this rubber from multiple sources—the best are as horse stall mats from ranch supply companies or as rolled rubber sheeting. Buying “fitness” matting is unnecessarily expensive. Buy rubber with a smooth, flat surface at least on one side—I can’t stand platforms with diamond plating patterns on the rubber. It makes the bar bounce unpredictably and hard to get set up in the exact position you want when lifting. Other rough surfaces are hard to clean and get disgusting in short order.
If you’ve trimmed your lifting sheet down to 3’6”, you’ll need to cut two pieces of rubber 27 inches x 8 feet. If you’re leaving the wood 4 feet wide, the rubber will need to be 2x8 feet. This is where additional expense and work comes into play—you can buy rubber in 4-foot widths, which can be cut in half to create your two 2-foot wide pieces if you go with a 4-foot wide lifting surface. If you opt to use a narrower lifting surface, you end up with a leftover piece of rubber 21 inches wide that you can’t use on the platform without having seams. Is it worth it to go narrower? I think so—you can use the extra rubber for other projects, or for on the floor between multiple platforms.
Once you have the rubber cut, lay it on the platform along the outside edges of your lifting surface. Get these three pieces aligned and snugged up tightly against each other, then screw the wooden top sheet down. Again, you can glue it if you don’t even plan on replacing it or moving the platform. Screw along the edges and countersink the screws.
Finally, screw the rubber down—I only screw the corners and a few spots on the outside edges. This is enough to keep it tightly in place, and you then have no screw heads where the bumpers will be dropping, so you won’t damage them.
If you need to increase sound-dampening, you can add a second layer of rubber (and an equally thick wooden layer under the top sheet to keep the lifting surface flat). This rubber can be underlayment, which is less expensive and more absorptive. Keep in mind that this will reduce the noise somewhat, but dropping heavy weights will be loud no matter what you do if the lifting surface is stable and hard as it should be.
Flush Platform
Building a flush platform is very simple, but depending on how you do it, it can be easy or a nightmare. Its advantages are its simplicity, lower cost and the ability to use the space in multiple ways mentioned above. Its disadvantages are limited force absorption and protection of the underlying floor, less noise reduction, and no clearly defined lifting area to keep lifters contained.
First, decide what dimensions you want for the actual wooden lifting area. Often these are somewhat smaller than a traditional platform—for example, 4x6 feet. Buy a sheet of wood that’s the same thickness as your rubber flooring. Remember, for this to work well and be safe, these layers have to be identical in height—you don’t want a raised edge that toes and heels can catch on. If you’re using plywood, you’ll need to shell out good money for a quality sheet that has a smooth, consistent surface and won’t warp easily. MDF is another option, which is convenient because it’s heavy and naturally very flat, as well as considerably less expensive than quality plywood.
Cut the wood to the desired dimensions and lay it on the floor where you want to sink it. Once you have it perfectly positioned, trace its edges carefully with a pencil, or if you’re brave, you can score the rubber immediately with a utility knife. In the latter case, be careful and be sure that you’re scoring in immediate proximity of the edge.
Pull off the wood and finish cutting the rubber. I recommend trying to angle the cuts slightly inward/downward—that is, the bottom of the rubber should be cut very slightly wider than the top. This will allow the wood sheet to fit in tightly along the top edges but slide in all the way easily and not cause the rubber to bunch.
The wood should be affixed to the floor in some way to prevent its shifting. I have made a flush platform in one gym in which the wood was not attached to the floor and worked fine, but it was based on luck of a good piece of wood, perfectly flat, smooth floor, and very precise, tight cuts. I don’t recommend relying on this. You can use some construction adhesive in spots along the edges and through the middle to prevent the wood from bowing up in the center, or if you have the tools and the patience, you can use masonry screws into cement flooring; if you’re going to screw it down, make sure you countersink the screws adequately so the lifting surface is perfectly flat.
Finishing the Wood
I prefer leaving the lifting surface unfinished. As long as it’s kept clean—dusted and very lightly mopped regularly—it will be a solid, non-slippery surface, even with MDF. Varnished surfaces tend to be slippery, so why spend all that time and money and brain cells finishing your platform when it doesn’t work as well anyway? Some people mix very fine sand into the finish to create a slightly rough surface… again, a lot of additional work unnecessarily in my opinion.
Once again...awesome info!
Curious, how often do you end up replacing the MDF? We are in a relatively humid environment and non-AC facility. Keep going back and forth between just spending a bit extra for a hardwood ply for the lifting surface.
We have the same MDF on our main 6 platforms that we've had since day 1 about 7 years ago. The edges are chipped, but the surface itself is totally fine. Plus with MDF, if you do have to replace it, it's dirt cheap, unlike good plywood.
I use 8' mats so there are no seams. If you use a 6' mat, put the seam toward the back of the platform and just screw the corners. It will be fine, it just won't look as nice.
How much width do you recommend having around the platform to avoid hitting things if/when the bar bounces a little bit sideways? I have a garage that's 5mx2.7m, if I put the platform running down the length of the garage a squat rack will go nicely at the end of it but I'm a bit concerned that I might hit the walls!
Thanks.
Well, if you're a sketchy lifter, more room is better, but really you shouldn't need much or any space outside an 8' wide platform - always guide the bar down rather than just drop it from full height and it won't take strange bounces.
2 layers of rubber will definitely dampen the noise and impact more - that's discussed in the last paragraph of the raised platform section.
Quit dropping the plates on the wood. It will dent and chip if it's plywood too, but the difference is that it's a lot less expensive to replace a sheet of MDF than good ply.
Would you suggest not doing dumbbells on the platform then ?
No, I wouldn't do anything but weightlifting on them.
How "portable" does a raised platform end up being. Would you be hesitant to, say, lift it up and store it on its side against the wall each night? Would it come apart easily?
Thanks again.
Not very portable. Very heavy, but also not rigid enough to easily lift and tilt. If you want to be able to do that, I would build a more rigid frame and expect to hate your life every time you wanted to raise and lower it. Rigging it with pulleys to a wall would be the easiest way to go.
Greg Everett
I am planning on installing a 3/8" rubber flooring over the entire floor then thinking about building an 8x8 plaform out of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood and then use 3/4" oak flooring that I have left over. What's your thoughts on this?
Thanks
Greg Everett
Steve Pan
Greg Everett
Thanks
Greg Everett
A follow up... rubberflooringinc.com sells custom size rolls of 1/2" rubber mats, not cheap either, but very high quality
thanks for sharing the info.
I was wondering why not using MDF for the base layers too?
Greg Everett
You're the man! Can you expand on the technique for actually cutting the rubber? I can't imagine how long it would take to hack away a thick stall mat with a utility knife, especially for outfitting a whole gym. Thanks!
Greg Everett
Greg Everett
If I wanted to add an extra layer of rubber (such as underlayment) in addition to my stall mat, would I put it underneath the stall mat or on top? Alternatively, should I just put the underlayment under the whole platform instead (or both)? The primary goal is noise reduction and the platform will be on cement in my garage
Greg Everett
Greg Everett
Greg Everett
in case of flush platforms (like CF gyms), which thickness would you use for MDF and mats ? are 2 layers of mat possible in this case or rubber floor tiles are needed to have the appropriate thickness for good force absorption ?
Thanks
Greg Everett
Thank you for the great article. I will build an 8x8 platform following your instructions above but I have squat rack with a footprint of 4x4 (Rogue sml 2). I want to put this on the platform. Do you think I will have enough space for the lifts? This is not a power rack so in some sense the empty space is about 6x8 except the legs of the rack will be there too. Thank you in advance..
Alyssa Sulay
Unfortunately, moving the platform on/off every day would not be ideal because it is pretty heavy.
Thanks
Sam
Greg Everett
I’m looking to build a raised platform that I can also secure my rack to. I have a Titan Fitness T-3 and I am unable to bolt directly to the concrete. Would this platform system be sufficient to bolt to or would you recommend a different set up? Thank you
what type of wood should base layers of plywood be? I have been searching for plywood and there are a lot of different types; birch, pine, beech etc. Which one should i pick? I'm from Europe so the standards might be different here.
Greg Everett
Alyssa Sulay
Greg Everett
Also, would using oak for the center lifting surface be a bad idea?
Thank you
Greg Everett
Alyssa Sulay
Greg Everett
Their lead times are great! 4 weeks?!
Thanks for such a helpful article.
I’m working on building a couple of platforms for my gym right now, but I have a question.
My gym has a lot of plywood but not all of them are cut to 4x8. Some are extra pieces from other things. Let’s say the bottom layer was made with 2 pieces of 4x8 plywood that are both 1/2”. Would it be a problem to construct the second layer with (2) 4x6 and (2) 4x2 pieces of plywood? Basically to try to use up the extra pieces that we have or would that affect the strength of the platform and we should just buy new plywood that is 4x8?